Firenze or Florence as it is known in English speaking countries has to be one of my favourite European cities. Small enough to feel friendly and intimate, but large enough that there is plenty to do and see, I would happily return to Florence again and again.
For the tick box tourist the central square, Piazza del Duomo is a must-see. As soon as you round the corner to the main square, you are struck by the overwhelming presence and beauty of the Duomo di Firenze, dominating the square. The Duomo itself is open to the public to climb (if heights, small spaces and walking up lots of steps are your thing) along with its neighbours, the baptistry and Giotto’s Campanile. If visiting in high season (from about April to October) I recommend booking your tickets for the attractions in the Piazza in advance to avoid disappointment. That’s not to say you won’t still have to queue to enter, however, whilst you do there is always the beautiful pink and green marble exteriors to marvel at.
Florence is a Swiss watch lover’s dream. Panerai originates from the city and at the edge of the square, you will find their impressive boutique. Not far away, the iconic bridge, the Ponte Vecchio also hosts a vast array of watch brands and jewellery shops.
Back in the Piazza, there are many lunch options some more touristy than others. ‘Panini Toscani ’ a short walk down the left-hand side of the Duomo (if you are looking from the front) has to be the most understated gem. With a tiny façade, you will probably first notice it because of the queue out the door into the square. Only offering paninis, choose your bread and fillings from a delicious selection of fresh local meats, cheeses and marinated vegetables, and wash it down with a glass of local wine. The winning combination of a fresh panini and wine feels authentic in the very heart of the city, whilst also being excellent value and quality.
Beyond the main square, Florence is culturally rich. As with most Italian cities, there are numerous cathedrals, and it is also home to Michelangelo's famous statue David. It is easy to spend a morning wandering around the Uffizi gallery - even more so if you’re a fan of Italian Renaissance artwork!
For me, however, I visit Florence to eat! You don’t need to spend a lot in Florence to enjoy a truly delicious meal. If you opt for something from the ‘Primi’ section of the menu you are only looking at 10 to 15 euros, for a dish that is no doubt tasty and superb quality. With such good food on offer, there is no time to waste eating in a bad restaurant. My top pick has to be Il Santo Bevitore (www.ilsantobevitore.com). Located one road back from the river Arno, on the less-touristy side where you will also find the Boboli Gardens, this cavernous restaurant, with wine lined walls has a cool vibe and serves dishes that make you want to savour every bite. A short walk from the restaurant is it’s sister bakery S. Forno Panificio. Go there for breakfast and you are guaranteed a delicious selection of baked goods, plus deli produce and probably a photo for your Instagram feed!
If you fancy something more decadent, head to Gucci Osteria at Gucci Gardens. Yes, that’s Gucci, as in the handbags- another brand that was born in Florence. This beautifully decorated pea-green panelled restaurant, with its waiting staff in their enviable outfits, is located at the top of Piazza Della Signoria next to the Gucci Garden shop and Museum. The tasting menu is traditional Italian with international influences, overseen by three Michelin star awarded chef, Massimo Bottura, it won’t leave you disappointed. Each diner is given a free entrance voucher to the Gucci museum which is well worth a look, with Gucci clothes and luggage dating right back to the 1930s.
Any Italian vacation would not be complete without at least one gelato per day! I personally avoid the brightly coloured mountains of ice cream, with fruit and kinder eggs perched on top in favour of the more artisanal silver lidded vats of gelato. I try to go for the most unusual flavours and I found these at Gelateria Artigianale La Strega Nocciola (www.lastreganocciola.it). The frozen yoghurt with balsamic vinegar was surprisingly delicious and the Buontalenti, a traditional Fiorentina flavour tasted like cake mix but better! Nestled between the Ponte Vecchio and the Boboli Gardens this Gelateria is definitely worth crossing the river!
If you want to explore beyond Florence, Pisa is within easy reach via train. A few hours is more than enough to check out the leaning tower and the Piazza that it is in.
Slightly further afield is Lucca, a renaissance walled city. It’s about 1 hour 30 minutes from Florence by train and is small enough that you can see most of the sights on foot in a day. Piazza del’ Anfiteatro is an oval-shaped square so to say. This is a great spot for lunch in one of the many restaurants that line the edge.
As the capital of Tuscany, Florence hits the spot when it comes to the perfect Italian getaway, and also provides a great base to explore more of this beautiful region. One thing is for sure you won’t go hungry!
Maps (from left to right) - email for more information and prices.
Firenze - By Wagner and Debes. Leipzig 1907. 34cm x 23cm
Central Florence - By McLagan and Cumming. Edinburgh 1958. 21cm x 15.5cm
Large Florence Map - Author and date unknown, estimated mid 18th Century. 65cm x 63cm
Pisa - By McLagan and Cumming. Edinburgh 1958. 14cm x 15.5cm
Lucca - By Wagner and Debes. Leipzig 1907. 15.5cm x 11cm
Italy - By Edward Stamford. 35cm x 28cm